WOODENWARE CARE INSTRUctions

Avoid using non-drying crude oil by-products (e.g. Mineral Oil), oils containing unsaturated or polyunsaturated fats (e.g. Olive Oil, Vegetable Oil, etc.), or one of the many popular wood "Finishes" containing volatile organic compounds (e.g. "Boiled" Linseed Oil, Tung Oil "Finish," etc.)

Our recommendations...

REAL MILK PAINT BRAND WOOD WAX 

• WOOD WAX - Great for finishing raw wood surfaces, providing a beautiful lustrous finish and protective surface.
• MULTIPLE USES - Use the Wood Wax for finishing wood utensils, cutting boards, wooden bowls, butcher blocks, and chopping blocks. It’s ideal to seal over Milk Paint or wood furniture.
• FOOD GRADE - Safe for food contact. A great penetrating oil formula for use on wooden kitchen items such as utensils and chopping boards.
• WATERPROOF - Wood Wax can be used as a waterproof wood sealer. The Wood Wax helps seal and protect wooden surfaces, creating a satin, waterproof barrier.
• NATURAL - A 100% natural wax made from plant-based materials, including walnut oil and carnauba wax, a vegan formula. VOC-free wood butter with no solvents or petroleum (mineral oil).

REAL MILK PAINT BRAND PURE TUNG OIL HALF & HALF

• HALF & HALF - Pre-mixed Pure Tung Oil and Orange Peel Oil for wood finishing. A thinner formula which allows the oil to penetrate deeper into the wood.
• MULTIPLE USES - Use the wood oil and Orange Peel Oil formula for finishing wood utensils, countertops, bowls, butcher blocks, cutting boards, chopping blocks, concrete, terra cotta clay pots, stone, and slate.
• FOOD GRADE - Safe for food contact. A great penetrating oil for use on wooden kitchen items such as utensils and chopping boards.
• WATERPROOF - Use as a waterproof wood sealer, 3 to 5 coats are needed to seal. The all-natural finish takes 7-10 days to develop water resistance and 30 days for a complete cure.
• PLANET FRIENDLY - Pure Tung Oil wood finish is planet friendly and has a natural light “Honey” color, which is great for achieving an antique finish.

MAHONEY'S BRAND HEAT TREATED AND FILTERED WALNUT OIL

Developed by renowned bowl turner Mike Mahoney, this utility finish is filtered, 100% pure walnut oil. It will harden into a food safe satin finish for bowls, butcher blocks, wood utensils and other wooden utility ware. Just wipe on and let it penetrate and harden for 24 hours, then reapply as desired.

Features:

• 100% pure walnut oil
• Leaves a great satin finish on all hardwoods and exotic woods
• No petroleum distillates
• Completely safe for food contact after drying
• Just wipe on or immerse

TRIED AND TRUE BRAND POLYMERIZED LINSEED OIL

• Tried & True Danish Oil is an all-purpose, 100% natural and food safe traditional oil finish. Pure high-grade, fast drying linseed oil without any drying aids (aka heavy metal salts).
• Proprietary heat treating process turns raw flax oil into Danish Oil. 100% renewable, safe for skin & food contact. No need for PPE or ventilation while using. Petrochemical Free, Heavy Metal Free.
• Gains a patina as it ages. Truest Danish Oil formula, as they would have been made 125 years ago! Great for users new to natural oil finishing or those that want a classic simple hand rubbed finish. Use on raw iron, earthen floors or any other project that traditionally calls for pure linseed oil.
• Perfect finish for live edges. Excellent primer for other Tried & True products. This product can be applied over other natural oil finishes and penetrating stains. Can also be a base coat grain enhancer prior to pouring epoxy.
• Tried & True products have infinite reparability and will last longer than a lifetime when properly maintained. No yellow plastic flakes as they age! These are 100% solids (no fillers, no solvents) so a little bit goes a very long way.

First things first: There’s a very clear-cut difference between these two types:

• Drying oils thicken and harden once they’re exposed to air, creating a tough coating that protects surfaces but doesn’t leave much room for flexibility. They essentially transform from a liquid to a solid, providing a sturdy, durable finish to whatever surface you’re applying them to.
• Non-drying oils won’t harden when exposed to air. Instead, they stay very close to their liquid form and will wash off with soap and water. For that reason, they will need to be reapplied and are really more of a treatment than a long-lasting finish.

These partially harden, but while this may seem like a good compromise, don’t be fooled. Semi-drying oils give off an unpleasant smell that seems to linger, and they feel like they stay sticky long after you’ve wrapped up your project. That makes for a potentially messy finish and an unpleasant feel if you plan on touching the surface anytime soon. Imagine using corn, cottonseed, sesame or grapeseed oil as a woodworking finish and you’ll get an idea of how a semi-drying oil would perform.

Quite a few popular drying oil finishes fall into this category, including:

• Linseed oil
• Tung oil
• Poppyseed oil
• Perilla oil
• Walnut oil

These finishes are more likely to be refined, which involves removing impurities and other compounds that could cause discoloration such as yellowing.

Drying oils need air to kick-start the oxidation process. Oxidation also produces heat; if you’re using this type of oil, you’ll need to be careful to store it properly and dispose of saturated materials promptly and safely to prevent spontaneous combustion.

Use drying oils to safeguard high-traffic, frequently used surfaces that you don’t want to feel sticky and won’t be able to re-treat with any regularity. Wood floors, decks, cabinets, countertops and some types of furniture may all benefit from a high-quality drying oil.

As for non-drying oils, these include:

• Almond oil
• Babassu oil
• Baobab oil
• Cocoa butter
• Coconut oil
• Macadamia oil
• Nahar seed oil
• Mineral oil
• Olive oil
• Peanut oil

Non-drying oils are often processed with the goal of becoming food safe. That’s ideal if you’re using them to work on kitchen counters or cutting boards and if you plan on cooking with them in between projects — after all, macadamia oil and peanut oil are downright tasty, though you might not say the same about mineral oil.

These natural oils are also safer in terms of fire risk. You can work with nondrying oils, leave the saturated rag on your workbench and not worry about spontaneous combustion turning your works in progress into a heaping pile of ash.

Non-drying oils are ideal for use in food, skincare products, sporting equipment or to condition pliable materials such as leather boots. Whereas a drying oil would harden and lead to stiffness and cracking, non-drying oils keep leather buttery and supple.

You can use drying and non-drying oils interchangeably. (False)

Walnut and almond oil may look a lot alike in the bottle, but they’re chemically very different, which means how they react to chemical change is different too. You may be able to use them for the same purpose, but you can’t expect the same results. One will dry faster than the other (one might not dry at all), last longer, smell better and react poorly or positively with food. Knowing the ins and outs before you choose your natural solution is vital if you care about your project’s outcome.